May 1 – Isla Isabela

Darwin Lake above Tagus Cove

The day began with a hike before breakfast up 150 steps to a wonderful view of Darwin Lake and Tagus Cove. The trail was nearly all up hill. We passed a nesting cormorant and a sea lion that had crawled into a cave. We saw a hawk moth and a number of finches and warblers. Even at 6:00-8:00 am it was a hot, sweaty hike. The palo santo trees we encountered on the way down were weeping sap - a pleasant scent similar to sandalwood.

Larry & Judy kayaking

After a welcome breakfast, we were ready for a panga ride around the cove. Larry and Judy opted for their own transportation and took to the kayak.

Cormorant drying its wings

On shore we saw penguins, cormorants and sea lions. In the water there were chocolate chip starfish and sea turtles.


After a quick change into our wetsuits, it was a snorkel excursion in the same area. A white tip shark was seen by some, a big balloon fish, many sea turtles, lots of encrusting sea sponges and starfish. The sea lions came to play again.


A warm lunch was welcome as we traveled to Urbina Bay where we had another opportunity to snorkel. The water was murky and the surge was disconcerting for the less experienced snorkelers. Laura, Judy & Judi opted to walk the black sand beach spying finches bathing in a tide pool.


The afternoon hike began as we watched a major hermit crab migration cross the trail. We then came upon a couple of species of Darwin finches. Biti said that they coexist yet remain distinct species because they eat and nest in different areas.

Galapagos land iguana

We began seeing large holes excavated in the underbrush which were land iguana nests. Finally we encountered the large orange land iguanas sunning themselves on the trail. They were amazingly patient as all of us crowded around to take pictures.

Galapagos tortoise before iguana nest

The treat of the afternoon was seeing two large Galapagos tortoises bulldozing their way through the undergrowth. The trail circled back and we enjoyed the encounter with both tortoises and iguanas a second time.


Back aboard the Beagle, we finished off the evening stargazing, many of us seeing the Southern Cross for the first time.